Test 1 is the dry test with figure of eight knots.
Wet rope strength.
Both of these are important measurements and it s worth learning how to measure and understand them.
However when wet it is possible to see as much as a 70 percent reduction in dynamic performance which is important when taking a lead fall see below.
Manufacturers results for knotted tensile strength throwbag rope values with an overhand knot.
But a wet nylon rope is also weaker than a dry one.
Each of these measurements has different uses and here we re going to give.
But again for toproping this isn t an issue.
Any bend tighter than 4 reduces the strength of rope because they stress the rope in flexure the fibers weaker direction.
Rope strength is a misunderstood metric.
However when wet it is possible to see as much as a 70 percent reduction in dynamic performance which is important when taking a lead fall.
In sterling s tests an 11 mm drycore rope held 11 falls dry and seven falls wet.
Static strength is most important when rappelling and ropes can have up to a 30 percent strength loss there.
Four inches is the magic number for maintaining full strength in a rope up to 5 8.
One boater will talk about tensile strength while the other will talk about working load.
Strength 8 is the min.
A wet rope is not dangerously weakened for rappelling compared with a dry rope.
According to sterling rope a non dry treated rope can lose 70 percent of its strength and a dry treated rope can be 40 percent weaker when wet.
Static strength is most important when rappelling and ropes can have up to a 30 percent strength loss there.